One of Ontario’s and Canada’s historic wineries, Cave Spring, established in 1986 by Len Pennachetti and his childhood friend Angelo Pavan, was one of the first wineries to go all in on Vitis vinifera varieties at a time when not many in Canada believed such wine grapes could really survive the Ontario winter.
Cave Spring, a true Riesling specialist that makes a slew of different and outstanding Riesling wines from different vineyards, has proven everybody wrong and then some. Over the years, the winery has experimented with many other varieties too (for example, for example with Chenin, but it really does have trouble with the winter cold) and today makes a number of outstanding wines from the likes of not just Riesling but Pinot Noir, Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay Musqué, Chardonnay, and more, including an appassimento-styled red called La Penna. The winery produces about 600,000 bottles a year and a new generation is now at the helm with Len’s brother Tom and a new viticulturist and winemaker, Gabriel (Gabe) Demarco, who apprenticed for years under Pavan (who finally stopped coming into work every day, his life’s work so you can understand him, beginning 2021).
NV Rosé Brut Beamsville Bench Niagara Peninsula – 92
From fruit culled in the 2020 vintage, this is an absolutely drop-dead, gorgeous Rosé sparkler, brimming with nuances of cranberry, plum and sweet spices, complicated by a hint of pine needles. Closes long, classically dry (2 g/L residual sugar) lifted and vibrant (9 g/L total acidity). They liked Gamay at the winery and wanted to try making a sparkler with it as it has in Niagara good acidity and light phenols. First such bottling ever made by Cave Spring, this lovely pink wine spent 27 months on the lees. It is 93% Gamay and 7% Chardonnay picked from the Cave Spring Vineyard. Not unreasonably, they felt at the winery that given the ripe, hot year the added freshness provided by the Chardonnay would help. A very nicely sophisticated wine and offers lots of bang for your buck. Drinking window: 2026-2029.
NV Blanc de Blancs Beamsville Bench – 93
Cave Spring didn’t start out as a sparkling wine specialist but has turned itself into one with each passing year. Really, this Blanc de Blancs is always spot on and really gives any generic Champagne brand’s normal cuvées a run for their money, and then some. Very fresh on the nose and in the mouth,with nicely saline nuances to the almond, lemon curd and orchard fruit aromas and flavours. Very long on the back end, this 100% Chardonnay is based on the 2022 vintage and spent about three years on lees in bottle. Seems just a touch sweeter than normal (7-8 g/L rather than the normal 6-7 g/L but I actually like the extra touch of sweetness because it helps make the wine even more balanced than usual. I like this! Drinking window: 2026-2030.
2023 Riesling Dry Niagara Peninsula – 90
Luminous straw-green. Very pretty, floral nose gives way to yellow apple, tangerine, talc, and minty flavours that linger impressively on the rising, long, clean, and fresh aftertaste. Very easy going and nicely approachable with just a touch of chewiness in the fresh mouthfeel, thanks to the must spending two to four hours on the skins. 100% Riesling picked from various vineyard sources (55% Beamsville Bench, 22% Lincoln Lakeshore, 18% Creek Shores, 5% Niagara River). Drinking window: 2026-2030.
2023 Estate Riesling Beamsville Bench – 92
Lively straw-green. Pungently perfumed and intense notes of lime, cinnamon, yellow plum and a hint of honeycomb on the nose. Then round and mellow, but with good juicy cut to the flavours that echo the aromas. Finishes classically dry with some very strong notes of Key lime pie and aromatic herbs. 100% Riesling picked in four parcels and various micro-parcels that are normally used to make the upper-end CSV wines. Skin contact in part (12-16 hours) and about 50% barrel fermented in 25-30% neutral oak casks and old oak barriques. 50% malo done. Lots of wine for the money. Drinking window: 2026-2032.
2022 Estate Riesling Beamsville Bench – 94
This is very pretty. White peach, lemony minerals, jasmine and lemon verbena on the refined nose. The very refined and even dainty in the mouth, with a very Mosel-like element. Closes long, vibrant and juicy, with some sweet almondy bitterness. Really lovely stuff that boasts impeccable balance (6 g/L residual sugar and 7.8 g/L total acidity). Lots of flavour and yet less than 12% alcohol! You can tell this is the product of a low yield (because of the spring frost that year that hit hard. The grapes were picked in the Cave Spring Vineyard and fermented over eight weeks (80% in stainless steel and 20% in a 3,500L cask); all lots fermented at unregulated temperatures using exclusively indigenous yeast and aged 8 months sur lie. Drinking window: 2026-2032.
2022 Riesling CSV Beamsville Bench – 94+
Vivid straw-green colour. Intensely perfumed, lifted aromas of white flowers, lime, candied orange peel, pineapple and honeycomb. Then it offers bold flavours of licorice, beeswax, pine resin, mint and a nicely saline lemony bitterness on the long, multifaceted close. A benchmark Ontario Riesling wine, this 100% Riesling was made by picking grapes from 30+ years old vines of the Cave Spring Vineyard. Vinification involved an 18-hour, whole-cluster skin soak and barrel-fermentation (50% in a 3,800L oak cask, and 25% each in neutral 225L and 500L oak barrels at unregulated temperatures using exclusively indigenous yeast); 60% malolactic fermentation; barrel ageing for twelve months sur lie; and bottled with minimal sulphur additions. Drinking window: 2027-2035.
2020 Riesling CSV Beamsville Bench – 95
Bright medium-deep straw yellow with some gold. Licorice and fennel with some lime greet the nose and even more so the mouth. Long, very precise and fresh, this has a bit more sweetness but also better balance than the 2022 (the extra sweetness because of the heat of the 2020 growing season, a very great and dry vintage). This also has a more viscous mouthfeel than usual, thanks to a little bit more alcohol, again a consequence of the warm growing season. This is a really knockout Riesling wine, if made in a slightly bigger, riper style than usual for this winery, but I am betting it will have legions of fans. Drinking window: 2026-2033.
2023 Chardonnay Estate Beamsville Bench – 93
Very pretty. Bright straw yellow. Cool, musky aromas of under-ripe pineapple, clove, menthol and oak char, plus complicating nuances of quince and Asian pear. Nicely creamy and rich, with intense apple, banana and nutmeg flavours. A very pliant style of Chardonnay, not at all hard and very long and lifted. This is a paragon of balance and boasts sneaky complexity and concentration, thanks to old vines (35 years old). Drinking window: 2026-2031.
2022 Chardonnay CSV Beamsville Bench – 92
Bright pale golden straw yellow. Captivating aromas and flavours of apple juice, apple crumble, Asian pear, quince, banana, and hazelnut. The rising finish is long and fresh. Whole-berry pressed, fermented eight weeks in a mix of barrels, including 35% in a 3rd fill 3,500L cask, 20% in neutral 500L barrels, 15% each in new and 2nd–4th fill 225L French oak barrels, and 15% in tank; all lots were fermented at unregulated temperatures using exclusively indigenous yeast and aged ten months sur lie; 85%malolactic fermentation; minimal sulphur additions prior to bottling. This lovely Chardonnay is still very young. Made from old vines (35 years old). Drinking window: 2026-2030.
2022 Chardonnay Musqué Estate Beamsville Bench – 93
Another very pretty wine from Cave Spring, arguably the biggest experts in Ontario on this rare variety. Golden yellow. Lemon curd, quinine, lime and white pepper on the captivating nose. The rich, dense and viscous, with luscious flavours of orange marmalade, grilled kumquats, marzipan and cinnamon. The aftertaste is dense and long, lifted by a bright acid punch (6 g/L total; acidity and 2 g/L residual sugar, so this is a classically dry wine). 100% Chardonnay Musqué, two clones planted: 77 and 80 (77 is less aromatic). Cave Spring’s is mostly the former, all planted in the Cave Spring Vineyard, and the vines are now almost 30 years old. De-stemmed fruit was skin-soaked for 16 hours before pressing and fermented in neutral 225L barrels using exclusively indigenous yeast; matured in barrel for ten months sur lie in neutral 225L barrels; 100% malolactic fermentation; minimal sulphur addition prior to bottling. Drinking window: 2026-2030.
2022 Pinot Gris Estate Beamsville Bench – 94
Maybe Cave Spring’s most underrated wine, this is great! Bright, good, full, straw yellow. Knockout nose of yellow apple, pear, rose water, beeswax, strawberry and honeycomb. Then long, rich and ripe, boasting lovely orchard fruit flavours, complicated by sweet spices; nicely mellow but well-balanced. Extremely serious, flavourful Pinot Gris that closes long and complex. Much better than the average of usually non-descript New World Pinot Gris wines that rarely impress outside of Oregon and occasional New Zealand examples, Cave Spring has a real winner here. Cask-fermented (95% in 2,500 litres and 5% in neutral 225-litre barriques), this spent one year on the lees. It’s always made with grapes picked from the same five rows every year, planted right beside the CSV Chardonnay rows on the far edge of the farm. Made with the classic 53 clone grafted onto 3309 and 101-14 rootstocks, this wine was born by chance one day. Winemaker Angelo Pavan was admiring another colleague's beautiful Pinot Gris vines one day in 2013, and it was so much better looking than their Sauvignon Blanc that was getting hammered every year by the Ontario weather that he said, “… you know, that’s what we should be growing too”. And the rest, as they say, is history. Drinking window: 2026-2030.
2023 Gewurztraminer Estate Beamsville Bench – 94
Gewürztraminer isn’t the easiest grape to grow in Niagara, but Cave Spring has a long history of excellence with this variety, and the 2023 is just dandy, a real gem. Luminous pale golden yellow. Explosive, complex aromas and flavours of grapefruit, rose, lychee, tangerine jelly, cinnamon, poached pear, vanilla and mango. Fresh and lifted in the mouth, with a perfect balance between acidity (5.6 g/L) and sweetness (4 g/L residual sugar), this finishes long and lifted. This is a very typical Gewurz wine on the nose, then rounder and creamier on the palate and classically dry. Just lovely. From roughly 30 years old vines planted in the Cave Spring Vineyard, 5% of the fruit underwent 12 hours of skin contact prior to pressing, and fermented in neutral oak barrels, 80% 225L and 20% 500L; the remaining 15% was whole-berry fruit, crushed by foot, and skin fermented; all lots were fermented using exclusively indigenous yeast and aged sur lie for eleven months; minimal sulphur additions prior to bottling. Try this with pork and chicken dishes, any Thai, Indian, and Chinese dishes you can think of, and fruit cocktails. Delicious. Drinking window:
Gamay Beamsville Bench – 92
Neither too pungent nor peppery, this boasts clean, fresh, and juicy red-fruit and peppery aromas and flavours. Has just a smidge of sweetness lingering on the flinty-smoky and citrus-accented, long finish. Very nicely balanced, easygoing and approachable. Drinking window: 2026-2028.
2023 Pinot Noir Beamsville Bench – 90
Currently more subdued than the 2021 Pinot Noir, this easygoing Pinot Noir offers juicy red fruit aromas and flavours that boast noteworthy salinity and savouriness. Drinking window: 2026-2029.
Read Less